Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
